Ajegunle: Mix of cultures where old ways scorn development
By Ajegunle community in Ajeromi Ifelodun Local Government Area of Lagos State is a community that lives by its own rules. Indeed, there seems to be an unwritten code that governs life in this ancient community which is a melting point for diverse ethnic groups in Nigeria
Ajegunle, popularly known as AJ city, covers a large land mass and is home to people from various tribes in Nigeria – Isoko, Igbo, Hausa, Yoruba, Urhobo, Ijaw, Bini, Berom, Igala, Efik, Ibibio and a host of others living together without any tribe being more prominent than the other.
AJ city is a country on its own with diverse streets that stand like council areas for residents with each street having an individual that has one way or the other become identified as the authority on that street. All through the streets of Ajegunle; from Boundary to Orodu Street to Goriola street, Fatimo lane, Salami Street, Bale Street, Rorobi Street to Tolu and Garuba street; or from Goriola link to Ojo road, Zacheus street, Ikenne Street to Sogbesan and Onibaba Street among others, the whole environment reeks of abject poverty, squalor, infrastructural decay and an unshakable impression that the area is a no man’s land where only the brave carries the day.
The Ajegunle environment is in direct contradiction to its name which in Yoruba means wealth has landed. Even to a first time visitor, it is immediately obvious that life in Ajegunle is about struggle and people hustling in various ways to earn a living. And while there are various ethnics in the community, the official language is Pidgin English. The struggle to make ends meet cuts across various endeavours in this community and often, the line between wrong and right is blurred as people, especially youths, cross the line frequently while prostitution, cultism, armed robbery and other vices thrive.
Ajegunle is seen as a notorious slum by many for obvious reasons, and in spite of producing countless football stars and showbiz celebrities, the characteristics that make people see it as the natural habitat for criminals and prostitutes remain unchanged.
Every situation is an opportunity to make money in Ajegunle as residents capitalise on every situation to make quick money; getting information comes with a price and how much one pays depends on what is at stake and the bargaining ability of each individual. Any attempt to take pictures is looked on with suspicion and the average resident automatically presses an unseen mute button once you are trying to record their conversations. It seems they are only willing to talk when there is no risk of revealing their identity.
Nigerian Tribune’s attempt to get 10 people on record gave the same results: once the recorder and camera came out, some walked away while others kept quiet. Not even increasing the agreed fee did not change their mind until a young man gave reasons for the action — no one wants to be identified in case the story makes some people in the community uncomfortable.
Moving around the inner streets of Ajegunle requires guts, and a strong instinct to know when to go back or blend with the elements. One cannot afford to act like a stranger in some streets, else the streetwise people in the money from community will see it as a fast chance to extort the newcomer.
During work hours, while many are at their place of business, many youths in the area loiter in streets and others sit idly in front of their houses idle and waiting for any opportunity to make quick cash. Unemployment, prostitution and crime seem a major part of life in AJ city and prostitution is a trade that is passed down the generation in Ajegunle community.
Because most houses in Ajegunle have no amenities, business-savvy individuals make money by providing services that are not available. Those that do not want to visit the canal are saved by modern public toilets where they pay N50 to pee and N100 to defecate, but these services are usually used by outsiders and not Ajegunle residents.
By its location, Ajegunle community should ordinarily be a rich one considering the fact that it borders two of Nigeria’s biggest sea ports; Apapa Wharf and Tin Can Island. But this is not the case; it seems immediately wealth lands in the area through the ports (as the name of the area indicates), it takes flight to other areas to settle, leaving Ajegunle, a community rich only in name.
It is said that nothing is constant except change. And Ajegunle community is not an exception to this. For months now, there has been continuous change in the setting of the area; new structures pop up almost on a daily basis, standing out like sore thumbs in the midst of the lines of brown unstructured houses.
On every street, there are new houses replacing old structures; storey buildings standing tall amidst the low family compound structures that used to be lumped together. The beautiful new structures stand aloof yet not alone on every street in the community. Among the new structures that create an uneven terrain in the community is the beautiful Goriola Primary School 2 in Boundary, Ajegunle.
This school, a beautiful complex, can be likened to a spot of colour in a sea of brown as it is bordered on both sides by low extended buildings that confirm the status of slum conferred on Ajegunle long time ago. Nigerian Tribune learnt that the government converted what used to be the dumpsite on Goriola Street to the beautiful building for the school. Pupils that attend the school from down the street, however, have to journey on a terrible road which was damaged by the inability of water to find a path to cross into the canal since its path has been blocked with houses.
A visit round the community reveals countless houses under construction. Some families have started changing the structure of their buildings from the brothel-style buildings to normal flats while some shop-like structures within the community are being renovated into normal residential homes.
Many believe this development is a sign of good things to come and predict that in years to come, the old Ajegunle may cease to exist as there is a likelihood of all the houses being sold to give room for new buildings. This sentiment is, however, not shared by many residents who believe that the new structures will only increase and exist alongside the old ones.
For them, it’s unlikely that all houses in the area will be sold out as some families are entrenched and will not sell off their properties. Their sentiment is easy to believe. Nigerian Tribune found out that the new structures springing up have in no way affected the way of life or essence of the ghetto called Ajegunle.
Some houses are even being renovated by the indigent families as the owners rather than sell off would rather polish it up to get higher rents. The people that spoke with Nigerian Tribune were unanimous in their view that though many old structures will still give way for new ones, Ajegunle will remain Ajegunle in spirit and culture.
The Seriki Hausa community in Goriola, Ajegunle, Muhammed Bello, relocated to Lagos from Jigawa without his family in 1985 during President Ibrahim Badamasi Babangida’s regime as Head of State and has remained a constant factor in the area for over 30 years.
He lives in a shed where he houses other Hausa people who ply different trades. Some are shoemakers, some tailors that move round the community plying their trade, some are water fetchers that move to other areas to work, some sell food and other items while many ride motorcycles.
He told Nigerian Tribune that he used to live in one of the houses before influx of new buildings created a spike in price of things in the area. He decided to live the way he does so that the standard of living of his family members back in his village will not be affected as he has to send money home regularly.
“I rented a room here on this street, but I later left it because my family is back in Jigawa State, I have plenty children back in my village in Jigawa and I pay rent on the house they stay. I was paying rent here and back home before but now, I can’t because this place is now expensive. The new houses coming up are making rent expensive.
“I can’t explain how old tenants that were living in the houses affected feel because most of them moved away and we don’t know where they went after they were sent out when the old houses were sold. I heard stories that some went to Lekki, some Ajah but I have not met anyone of them since they left so I can’t confirm.”
When asked how those that left could afford houses in Lekki and Ajah since the areas are expensive, he said, “That’s what I heard. I have not seen any of them since to confirm. It may be true, it may be false.”
When asked about the new building directly beside his domain, he stated that, “This building beside me is surprising. I went home just few weeks and came back to see this one here, the old house was gone. A neighbour of mine called Alaba, a carpenter, was living there and his carpentry shed was there just beside me. when I saw him, I asked what happened since I didn’t hear anything before I left, he said the problem is that the building is a family house and some family members wanted it sold and the money shared so everyone can move on with their shares and though some didn’t want to, they had no choice than to sell. And immediately it was sold, the new owners demolished the structure and put this up. So, all the old tenants left and we haven’t seen them since.”
Bello confirmed that most of the houses in the area are family houses that also accommodate tenants, adding that the new buildings in the area are not a threat to anyone.
“Most houses here are family houses, but there are also many tenants living in rooms in the houses. We see new houses every day but we are not affected by the new houses; they do not disturb us. Everyone goes on with his business. What I want is that government should fix this road. I want this Goriola road fixed,” he said.
And when asked whether he is not afraid that if the road is fixed, it will attract more people and all these houses will be sold leading to his relocation, Bello said, “this community is not an area for big people; it is occupied by old residents like me. They cannot pursue us from here; nothing can send us away, even these new houses cannot; we will either stay together here or they will put tenants in the new buildings.”
45-year-old Sunday Emekpoti from Delta State knows Ajegunle like the palm of his hand, having lived there all his life and he did not mince his words.
“I was born in this Ajegunle and I have always lived around here. Ajegunle has always been like it is now and this Goriola that you are in has always been a condemned area. They don’t reckon with us because they see this street in particular as a brothel street because before now, all these buildings, they used to put rooms for girls to use as brothel but now it is becoming a residential area.
“That primary school over there was a dumping ground before, so when government was going to build school on it, they demolished some houses behind the dump site to expand to the size they wanted. Though this area had always been relegated, we didn’t have issues with road before but now, the road is terrible. You can see how difficult it is to pass that spot. Now imagine when it rains how it will look,” he said.
When asked what went wrong with the road, he said, “before, water used to pass from the road through that path down to the canal behind the street, but the landlord of that house blocked the path and water cannot have free passage again. We have a councilor on this street but we have never seen him do anything. The little done on this road is done by the people; we try to fill it up frequently.”
Nigerian Tribune asked Emekpoti: now that new houses are springing up, how has it affected the area?
He said: “The new houses are cropping up but then, nothing has changed here. No positive developments; no amenities have been introduced. Houses are being built, but it does not affect us; life here remains the same. Even government that turned the dumpsite to a school didn’t think it was necessary to fix this road. Everyone does his thing here, that’s the life, no one disturbs others.
Are residents not afraid they may have to leave the area with the way old properties are being sold?
Emekpoti quipped: “Yes, it’s possible. Because every day, we see new structures going up, many will still lose their homes but there’s no way they can buy everywhere up; some old people will remain here forever. That is the Ajegunle way; if you lose your house here, you move to other streets, if you are lucky to get accommodation there. Here, we always find a way to survive. What we need is just this road to be fixed government should fix this road and do something about security around the whole Ajegunle.”
A trader at the Ajegunle boundary market, which is the commercial centre of the community, also spoke with Nigerian Tribune. The lady who sells fairly used belts refused to give her name because she didn’t want to be singled out in the market. She stated that though there have been new structures since she started trading at Ajegunle Boundary market for close to 10 years, the way of life has remained the same.
“It is true that we see new structures almost every day, but it has in no way changed anything. Life here remains the same; the way things are done has not changed. Ajegunle of 10 years ago is still the Ajegunle of today. The structures are just there but they really change nothing. See that roundabout there, that is where they still do their traditional rites. They go about their business and we sell our wares. If there is a need for secrecy, they do their thing at night.
“By 8.00pm, this place closes up and people go to their homes, so if they want to do anything, they do it then. Those new buildings come up everytime but it doesn’t affect our lives,” she said.
A resident that sells soft drinks in front of her house also spoke with Nigerian Tribune off camera on Orodu Street.
The middle aged woman said, “Let them be building their houses now. Is this not Ajegunle? Can they live here? Nobody can pursue anyone o; they either live with us or leave us alone. There’s no threat. I don’t know if anyone is threatened because none has said that to my hearing. I think people are comfortable with it. We are living our lives and they are building their houses. No one disturbs the other; life is just the same,” she said.
The story of Ajegunle is one of survival of the fittest in a community guided by unwritten codes. Indeed, Ajegunle is a well meshed inter-tribal community where the old is not threatened by the new.
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